Indian Jewelry
History of Indian jewelry
design
As far back as the Indus
Valley Civilization, both men and women wore different pieces of jewelry in the
form of bangles, earrings, amulets, waistband, and anklets. They used shells,
beads, clay, and seeds for ornamentation. The Mughal period from the sixteenth
to the nineteenth century saw the blossoming of Indian jewelry design using
precious stones pearls besides gold and silver. You find beautiful pieces of
richly carved jewelry in different motifs in Indian art, like the miniature
paintings. These paintings are testimony to the great wealth and resources of
the Indian royalty. The exquisite pieces draw inspiration from different facets
of nature. For example, the paisley motif, which is a hallmark of traditional
Indian jewelry design, is a symbolic representation of the mango fruit. Other
popular inspirations from nature include the cobra hood, rice grains, and
cucumber seeds. During the late nineteenth century, many of these Maharajas
commissioned unique ornaments from the top European designers like Van Clef and
Cartier, leading to a new class of Indo-European jewelry subtle in design using
colorful gems for a rich look. Types of jewelry design
Indian jewelry is available
in gold, silver, and diamonds and now there is a great demand for artificial and
costume jewelry. However, Indians have a penchant for the yellow metal and this
makes India the largest consumer of gold and gold ornaments in the world. Indian
art and culture bears traces of different rulers and religions, over the
centuries, absorbing the best from them while retaining its uniqueness. There
are different forms of jewelry design, each representative of a particular
region. Let us discuss a few of the designs. " Fine filigree work is a popular
where the design comprises entwined silver or gold threads. This is possible by
delicate plaiting of the metal threads, then soldered to the underlying metal
groundwork. Filigree designs are complex and require a lot of time and patience
in execution. These are typical of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. " Temple jewelry
worn in dances like Bharat Natyam is another popular jewelry design worn by
women in marriages and festivals, originating in Nagercoil. These traditional
gold ornaments embedded with red and green semi-precious stones were originally
gifts to the temple deities and hence known as temple jewelry. Traditional
craftsmen fashion these sets comprising earrings, necklace, headpiece, and
jewelry for the waist, ankles, fingers, nose, and hands. " Minakari design that
is enamel work on gold is another popular jewelry design from Jaipur. It uses an
interesting combination of pigments and precious stones arranged to glow when
light falls on it. Each set has a distinct design and is quite expensive. "
Delhi is world famous for Kundan design that has precious and semi-precious
stones set in gold. This style draws inspiration form the Mughal School of art
and comprises exquisite neckpieces and chokers. " Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh,
Gujarat, and Himachal Pradesh are renowned for a wide range of ethnic silver
jewelry. " Gold jewelry from Assam has interesting designs depicting the orchids
and local birds, the loka paro. Jewelry from Nagaland has distinct tribal
influences in the form of human heads and beads in different combinations with
gold. " Antique or oxidized jewelry has a huge market and is fashionable among
the younger generation. It comprises silver ornaments in contemporary designs
that are chic and affordable and one can buy them in varied styles. You can
choose from a range of fusion jewelry available in interesting combinations like
beads like rudraksh, glass, gold threads, and paper and flower jewelry.
Importance of jewelry for
Indian women Indian women have a special relationship with jewelry. It signifies
their marital status in the form of bangles for Punjabi brides, rings for others
or the traditional mangal sutra for Maharashtrians. Jewelry is the most
important accessory for a woman in her beautification, especially when
participating in marriages and important religious functions and hence forms an
integral part of her wardrobe.
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